Problem: A few old 90’s alarm key fobs use 6 volt batteries made up of 4 separate 1.5v button cells. Last year I needed one quick-like – same day – for the Golf Mk3 I’d just bought. There are plenty online, eBay etc, for about £5 to £10 but I couldn’t wait 2 days for one.
Solution: Nipped down to the Pound Shop and bought an assorted selection of hearing-aid button cell batteries for a quid! Taping four AG3’s together with Sellotape or Electrical Tape didn’t make a good enough electrical connection between the cells. Turns out a piece of Heat Shrink tubing, placed over all 4, then gently shrank (shrunk?) with a lighter forces the cells together nicely! After this is done, trim the top and bottom of the tubing to make sure the battery contacts are able to make connection. Continue reading “Homemade 6v Conlog type alarm fob battery.”
Problem: The boot of my 1996 Golk mk3 VR6 has been leaky since I got it last year, and this autumn and winter it’s beginning to get out of hand and make the car all stinky and damp!
Solution: After removing every piece of trim and carpet in the boot area, it was clear that water was getting in around the tail light cluster / unit seals. The part number for these seals or gaskets is 1H6 945 191, and they can be ordered from a VW dealer parts desk for about £20 a pair. I wanted mine a but quicker than the dealer could do it so went to a Trade Parts Specialist who ordered them in for me next morning by 8:30am.
Here’s how to fit them… Continue reading “Replacing Golf VR6 Mk3 rear light seals, fixing a leaking boot.”
Problem: My steering wheel sounded like it had sand in it, scraping on every turn. Nasty business.
Solution: Behind the steering wheel there are one or two sprung metal contacts that ‘slide’ over a metal contact ring on the steering wheel itself, presumably to connect the horn and airbag electrics. After 17 years it seems that lots of dirt and crap have built up on the contacts. Continue reading “Noisy gritty squeaky Golf Mk3 steering wheel”
Vehicle: 1996 Golf Mk3 VR6 Highline.
I bought a Vgate VS450 to check out some error codes on my VR6. It’s an OBD2 interface scanner, but as there are several other interfaces/protocils it can read, and mine is a ooooold car, it took a few attempts to get it to read anything worthwhile. Here are some screenies to guide you thorough.
Step 1: Plug the unit into your OBD port. On my Golf Mk3 (’96) the port is under a plastic cover to the left of the ash-tray. To remove the cover, first take out the ashtray (there’s a little sprung lever under the tray that allows it to be removed completely), then slide the plastic cover to the right. In my case the OBD port was crusted up with 18 years of dust so a quick wipe over with Switch Cleaner sorted that out. Continue reading “Using the Vgate VS450 with a Mk3 Golf VR6”
Vehicle: 1996 Golf Mk3 VR6 Highline.
Problem: One of the 4 machine screws attaching the trim surrounding the hatchback / tailgate / boot lid lock mechanism was missing. This resulted in rattling, which is an irritation, but more seriously the trim bent every time the boot was opened. The original fixings are Torx headed with an integral washer.
Solution: The original fixing’s part number is N90626201 but it’s no longer available. Taking measurements from an existing fixing shows that the size is M5 x 14mm (standard 0.8 mm pitch), and fixings of this size are available all over the place. Be careful with the length, this fixing screws into a closed-head Rivet Nut welded into the panel. Continue reading “Golf MK3 Boot / Tailgate ‘grip molding’ fixing missing”
Problem: My old BBS alloys need a serious refurb, and the worst looking parts were the centre caps. I can’t afford a proper returb!
Solution: The centre caps are plastic, with a thin alloy stamped, painted and lacquered inset. Firstly I removed the plastic cap from the main alloy centrepiece. Continue reading “Super quick and dirty BBS Alloy Centre Cap overhaul”
Problem: My VR6 was having trouble starting and idling when cold. Many forums suggest this is due to a faulty “Blue” temperature sensor.
Solution – Testing the Sensor: To test the sensor while it’s fitted to the car, remove the latched plastic connector from the sensor and measure the resistance (Ω) between the 2 pins.
If the sensor is working correctly it should measure about:
- 5500Ω at 0°c
- 2500Ω at 20°c
- 1250Ω at 40°c
- 600Ω at 60°c
- 325Ω at 80°c
I’m my case, the resistance was infinite, I.e. open circuit. So needed replacing.
Solution – Replacing the Sensor: The parts you will need are:
- 1 x 2-pin Blue Sensor (VW: 025 906 041 A, GSF: 929vg014)
- 1 x O-ring / Seal (know the part number? Please tell us in comments below)
- Metal or plastic retaining clip (know the part number? Please tell us in comments below)
Continue reading “Replacing the Blue Coolant Temperature Sensor in the Golf VR6 Mk3”